A nonslip coating is applied to the surface to help prevent slips and falls. However, just like any surface (like concrete steps), they are slip-resistant but certain environmental elements may cause ANY surface to become super slippery, like ice or snowy boots, or an oil spill, for example. We only ask that you exercise the same amount of caution with this floor as you would for any floor.

Much like any dangerous chemical you should always use the recommended amount for cleaning surfaces. Applying bleach or any chemical to any surface is never a good idea, but more for personal safety reasons. In terms of the condition of the floor, yes the floor is chemical resistant, even to bleach.

Any household cleaning agent will be sufficient to clean this floor. One of the main reasons why people choose this option to cover their concrete floors, other than looking sweet is that it’s super easy to clean and maintain. No more puddles of oils and stains slipping into your floor like your concrete did.

Oil spills are safe and easy to clean! No issues at all.

Due to our environment, with there being a lot of water that comes up from the ground and penetrates your concrete driveway from underneath, it’s not possible or recommended to do this. To top that off with vehicle traffic, you will not have a pleasant-looking driveway for long. If any concrete coating has recommended this to you, DON’T DO IT. You will not be satisfied by the result. Polyaspartic also doesn’t stick to concrete surfaces that have certain types of sealers.

No! In fact, there are a lot of people who prefer to have their concrete covered in their backyard, like hot tub pads, the deck that surrounds the pool, patio decks, even balconies, and stairs! Our protective coatings are 100% UV resistant. They will not be damaged or fade by the sun like Epoxy will.

Nothing. The main advantage of this type of concrete coating system is its resistance to impact. Polyaspartic material is also very bendable and able to adapt to the movement and settling of concrete. Unlike Epoxy where it cures hard as stone.

You are covered for any defects caused either from the making of the product or the installation of the floor for 15 years. Your investment with us is protected.

#1 question we get is this one. We have got you covered, literally. We will supply you with a storage unit that can be locked and secured while we work on your project. This is typically used when getting your garage floor done. Once we are done and the floor is ready, usually that day or the next, you can put your stuff back and we will arrange to have the unit picked up and out of your way!

Using a moisture vapor barrier primer first is essential when there are moisture concerns with any concrete slab.  Quantitative testing with calcium chloride or RH probes is necessary to determine the PSI or RH %.  1 coat of Citadel’s Ultra Hydro Stop Vapor Barrier Primer applied @ minimum thickness of 16 mils (100 sq ft per gal.) will reduce vapor emission rate up to 25 psi and RH of 99%.  When quantitative testing is not practical and there are moisture concerns with a slab, a vapor barrier primer offers insurance for potential failures on any floor project.

Yes, as getting down to bare concrete is a best practice, because we need to open up the pores of the concrete in order for maximum penetration of the base coat

  1. Inadequate preparation.
  2. Unaddressed moisture issues.
  3. Applications outside of the environmental tolerances of the coating system (i.e. temperatures, humidity & dew point).
  4. Errors with mix ratios or inadequate mixing of components separately & together.
  5. Applying coatings too thin or heavier than recommended.

Epoxy flooring is a smooth and seamless surface that is ideal for covering concrete. Because it’s a non-porous surface, it doesn’t stain, and it is extremely resistant to damage and very easy to clean with just mild soap and water. It’s also ideal for rooms or areas that are going to have high traffic, and won’t degrade over time like concrete can. Finally, it doesn’t crack so you don’t have to deal with that unsightly issue like you would with bare or treated concrete flooring.

Epoxy flooring is a combination of hardeners and resins that, when mixed together, create a chemical reaction causing it to harden into a rigid material with very strong bonds. That makes it durable and resistant to some of the most common issues you see with concrete, such as cracks, water damage, stains, and more.

There is no right or wrong place to add epoxy flooring, but some of the most common include:

  • Garages
  • Restaurant kitchens
  • Airports
  • Gymnasiums or sports facilities
  • Storage facilities
  • Warehouses

There are also more decorative epoxy floor coatings that are popular in:

  • Locker rooms
  • Laundromats or other businesses
  • Showrooms
  • Medical facilities and clinics
  • Kitchens
  • Office buildings

The exact installation time will vary based on the size of the area where you are getting epoxy floor coating, but in general it takes anywhere from two to three days for an average-size garage. It’s important to note that nobody can come in contact with the flooring (walking, driving, etc.) while it hardens for at least 24 to 48 hours, so make sure you’re prepared to seal off the area completely.

This depends on the extent of the damage. If it’s just some stains and minor cracks, we can repair those quickly before installing the floor, but if there are significant cracks or water damage, you may need to repair that before applying the epoxy.

There are some situations when it would not work or would not be beneficial to get epoxy flooring. For example, it won’t adhere properly to a floor system that is damp or dirty. If you have it installed by someone who is not a professional, trapped moisture can cause damage that requires a repair. There is also a strong smell during application, but it will go away. Most of these issues can be easily avoided by hiring a professional to install it.

In the industry that is resinous flooring “epoxy” has become a catch all term for fluid applied flooring, in reality epoxy is a thermosetting polymer and typically two components- resin and hardener. Epoxy is great as a primer and base coat due to its ability to penetrate into a concrete substrate. Epoxies typically do not have much UV stability causing them to amber overtime. Epoxy is also not generally recommended as a topcoat outside of specialty systems such as novaloc due to its poor abrasion resistance.
Parking garage coating is typically a single or two component moisture, or catalyst activated cure urethane technology, these systems are designed to waterproof and protect the structural components of the structure they are applied too. With this being said, parking garage coatings require more diligence when preparing the substrate when applying mixing and applying the material and as well as frequent inspections as not only millions of dollars could be lost due to the systems failure but also peoples lives due to structure collapse.
Outgassing occurs when air in the concretes pinholes release, and puncture a not yet fully cured coating. The leading cause of out gassing is applying material when the temperature is rising as that is when the most air will be released from the concrete, think of a tire in the summer versus the winter. I have a post that I have written on LinkedIn entitled  “On Preventing Outgassing”. 

There is no one size fits all solution. Each project must be investigated individually, taking into account, wear patterns, chemical exposure, austere environment etc. If I had to give one system, it would be a 3/8″ urethane cement with colored quartz and MMA topcoats  as this system is nearly indestructible has perfect moisture protection, tenacious bond to substrate and most manufactures have warranties starting at 10 years. /urethane cement/MMA flooring is sold to the customer anywhere from $8-$150 a square foot and is out of many general contractors budgets. 

Tile may be coated as long as it is properly bonded, you can test bond by dragging a chain across the tile and listening for any hollow spots. Hollow spots should be demoed out and patched.
For prep tile must be completely deglazed, this can be done with a grinder or shot blaster. It is best to use both of these pieces of equipment and conjunction, grinding first to deglaze and remove any lippage Followed by a light brush, blast to remove any residual dust, prep the grout lines, and also remove any loose grout.
For filling the grout lines it is system dependent. A good standard to have is a skim coat of urethane. Cement applied with flat trowels.
When dealing with petroleum soaked floors it is important to get the manufacturer involved and have their reps write scope and  sign off on our workmanship. When properly prepped and the correct systems used petrol soaked floors may be coated while still delivering standard warranty.